Drifting back to the Nile

Tourism to Egypt slumped after the tragic terrorist attack there in 1997. Sylvia Kingsley became one of the thousands of sightseers now returning.

  Egypt is back in business. After five years in the tourism doldrums following the terrorist atrocity of 1997, the country is winning new popularity.

  The stringent security put in place at all attractions following the deaths of 68 people at Luxor is reassuring visitors, who are now flocking back to the land of the ancients.

  Last year there were 200,000 tourists from Britain alone—and no wonder. Egypt boasts some of the world's most amazing historical treasures. It is the only place in the world where—as a road sign on the way to Luxor informs drivers—you can look 7,000 years of civilisation in the face.

   The best way to see the country is by cruising the Nile, one of the greatest rivers in the world and the lifeblood of Egypt. We boarded the Nile Ritz at Luxor and spent four days exploring the many attractions along the river's banks.

   First call was Karnak Temple, considered Egypt's grandest monument. Its largest court is so vast it could house the mighty Notre Dame Cathedral of Paris. There are also sacred lakes, chapels and sphinx-lined avenues to explore at this site.

   Sunset, when the floodlights come on and the stone turns pink, is the hour for seeing Luxor Temple. Less important than Karnak, it was used during the New Year's pageant for the ancient Egyptians' chief god, Amon.

    Back on board the Nile Ritz after our first dose of culture, we enjoyed a buffet supper, followed by a belly-dancing show. The next day, intoxicated by the hot sun and ancient rocks, we headed for the Valley of the Kings and descended into tombs filled with miraculously preserved paintings of birds, animals and goddesses. After dinner, we chatted on deck with our companions from around the world before cruising on to Queen Hatshepsut's elegant temple. A lady who knew her own mind, she ruled first as a king, then as a queen!

   Next evening on the ship is Galabiyya night. Long, traditional robes, turbans or fez hats are worn. An oriental feast is followed by dancing to loud Egyptian music and everyone has a thoroughly good time.

   Aswan is the last stop. Egypt's most southerly town on the Nile is a melting pot of people. It is a lovely town, and a favourite of Baroness Thatcher's.

  Its market is full of treasures to take home— spices jewellery, leather goods and brassware. at the Old Cataract Hotel, Agatha Christie wrote some of her thrillers while her archaeologist husband was working on digs.
A felucca ride at sunset is the best to enjoy Aswan's calm beauty. The river is full of these graceful boats.

    On Philae Island, reached by motorboat, stands the Temple of Isis—which has its own spectacular sound-and-light show. Governor General Kitcheners was presented with the island as a reward for his military exploits in the Sudan.
The Nubia Museum, high on a hill above Aswan, is devoted to the history and civilisation of the Nubians and is worth a visit.

Before leaving the town, we visited the Nubian Perfume Parlour where the "scents of the centuries" are revealed to visitors.
We enjoyed a glass of hibiscus juice, said to lower blood pressure. Then Secret Of The Desert, a blend of more than 100 flowers claimed to be the Viagra of the ancients, is brought out. It was supposedly used by King Ramses 11. Since he fathered 106 children, there may be some truth in the claim. A concoction apparently popular with visiting Brits is mint oil. It helps clear blocked sinuses.

Bustling with street life and hundreds of horse-drawn buggies Luxor has many restaurants and markets. Bazaars stay open until the early hours and the shopping is good.
Visitors to Queen Nefertari's tomb in the Valley Of The Queens get just ten minutes to see this marvel. Limits of 150 people a day have been imposed to protect it from pollution. It is a privilege to see; the walls are a mass of paintings retaining their original colours.
Warm and welcoming, the Egyptian people are happy to see their visitors returning and you'll be delighted to share their history.